A Tale of Two Cities - Part II - Bangkok

In my last post, I highlighted the serenity of Koh Samui. In this post, I will tell you a bit about the one day I spent in Bangkok, which could not be more different from Koh Samui but is just as fascinating. 


Bangkok is the capital of Thailand, and as such is its largest urban city. Known in Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, it means the "city of angels". The actual background for the word BANGKOK is unknown. Bang is the word used by the Thai for a town situated on a river. Kok is unknown in origin but is thought to perhaps be a flavor of the word Koh, which as we now know means Island. 


What we do know is that Bangkok began as an integral port and trading community due to its location on the Chao Phraya River. For four centuries until the late 1700's, it was ruled over by the Ayutthaya Kingdom (the precursor to modern Thailand). It was taken over by the Burmese, and due to its strategic location, served for many years as a buffer zone between French and British colonials. In recent years, under the rule of several monarchs (one named Phra Bat Somdet Phra Poramintharamaha Chulalongkorn Phra Chunla Chom Klao Chao Yu Hua.....seriously) all under the Chakri dynasty, it has become vastly modernized while still maintaining its ancient heritage. Interspersed amongst massively tall skyscrapers and modern urban amenities are hundreds of Buddhist temples and ancient palaces like Wat Arun and the Grand Palace. I love the mix of modern and antiquity.


The flight from Koh Samui was a bit delayed, but a relatively easy hour-long journey to Bangkok. The Bangkok airport is HUGE and quite modern, having just been built in the past few years. It certainly signals when you arrive that Bangkok is a force to be reckoned with...it means business. Though arriving late on Friday night, I woke early the next day to take full advantage of the city!


We started by hopping the (very modern) subway and then a fast-as-heck river boat to the Grand Palace. The interesting part of the story is that we had a small adventure (some may call it a detour) before entering the palace. In short, we were "took took" by a "tuk tuk". Allow me to explain. Fresh off the friendliness of the Thai people in Koh Samui, we city gals let our guards down and immediately fell for the story told to us by an official-looking gentleman (well, he was in a uniform) outside of the Grand Palace. It went something like the Grand Palace was closed for 2 hours while the monks prayed, so we should go see the Standing Buddha, which is only open 1 day a year and today happened to be that day! And, oh look, here's a nice tuk-tuk (a small motorized scooter that seats 3 passengers) driver who is available who can take you straight there! How nice of them!!

Our river boat - the thing can haul!

3 city girls take a tuk-tuk ride.... 

I need one of these tuk-tuk's for Sydney

What we realized mid-way through was that it was a total scam. We indeed saw the Standing Buddha, but learned it is open all the time. But when our tuk-tuk driver took us to a jewelry store, we discovered the scam and that she was actually paid by shopowners to drive unsuspecting tourists to their stores in exchange for petrol. After finagling her to drive us back to the Palace, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. The grounds were beautiful, the buildings ornate and the Emerald Buddha (only about a foot tall, made entirely of carved emerald, sitting atop an ornate, gold-encrusted structure about 40 feet tall) mesmerizing.


The Grand Palace has, until recently, served as the primary residence of the Thai monarchy since 1782. It is a vast series of intricately appointed buildings and temples. To enter, you must have your arms and legs covered, and as you explore the grounds, you are required at times to remove your shoes. The opulence of the Grand Palace is nearly indescribable, as is its beauty. 

One of the many statuettes at the Palace 

Moi, a la the Grand Palace. I bought the dress for $5 just outside so I had something to cover my arms and legs.

So charming! Each were actually about 6 feet tall.

A different type of statuette at the Palace

From there, we grabbed a real taxi (ahem) to a hidden gem of a restaurant called Chote Chitr recommended by my friend Christian as the best Thai food in Bangkok. Indeed it was. It was a tiny hole-in-the-wall cafe with only 5 tables, an aggressive Thai female owner named Tim and by God the most delicious food. My favorites were the spicy papaya salad, curried jumbo prawns and steamed fish in banana leaves. YUM!! There was a bit of drama while there, but I'll leave it to my friends to chuckle about the whirlwind we had, as well as my insistence on staying put while we tried to locate a lost camera, a massive swing and someone in Australia, all while enjoying the delicious cuisine. :) The rest of the day was spent traversing the city and walking through the local markets. 

Me at Chote Chitr - thanks Christian!

A classic street vendor offering (that I actually could identify)

After a quick shower and a mission to keep going despite absolute exhaustion, we headed out to enjoy an incredible view of the sprawling urban landscape of Bangkok high atop the 63rd floor of the open air SkyBar. While the wind was whipping furiously in the warm air of the evening, I enjoyed a glass of bubbly and amazing views! We then went to a famous Bangkok restaurant called the Blue Elephant. The menu was so cool. It had 3 sections - one for food inspired by the past, one for the present and another for the future. I chose the past, and did not regret it. Delicious!!

At the Blue Elephant

As I collapsed into bed after such an adventurous day, I reflected on the city of Bangkok and how different it is from Koh Samui. It's busy, dirty and enterprising. It's full of markets, big Asian business and traffic. It's loud and imposing. It's also fascinating, and much like Koh Samui, is filled with Thai people who are genuinely friendly and happy to have you enjoy their city.


I look forward to returning soon. One day was not nearly enough.
Until next time....xoxo